Nima Adventure Trek & Expedition P. Ltd.
Boudha-06, Kathmandu, Nepal
+977-9851114058 · info@nimaadventure.com
Boudha-06, Kathmandu, Nepal
+977-9851114058 · info@nimaadventure.com
A 26-day camping trek into restricted Upper Dolpo, from turquoise Phoksundo Lake over the Kang La to Shey Gompa, Saldang and the Tarap valley.
Dolpo lies in the far north of mid-western Nepal, hidden in the rain shadow of the Dhaulagiri and Kanjiroba ranges. It is a high, dry land of bare brown hills, barley fields, yak caravans and whitewashed monasteries, culturally much closer to Tibet than to the rest of Nepal. Upper Dolpo is one of the country's most tightly controlled restricted areas, and few outsiders ever reach it. Many travellers first heard of it through Peter Matthiessen's book The Snow Leopard, which follows his journey to Shey Gompa, and through Eric Valli's film Himalaya, shot among Dolpo's salt and grain caravans.
The trek begins with flights from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and on to the small airstrip at Juphal. From Dunai we follow the Suli Gad into Shey Phoksundo National Park, Nepal's largest national park, and climb past a tall waterfall to Ringmo village and Phoksundo Lake (3,611 m), famous for its deep turquoise colour and one of the deepest lakes in Nepal. After a rest day we follow the dramatic trail along the lake's western shore and up a glacial valley to cross the Kang La (around 5,300 m) to Shey Gompa, set beneath the sacred Crystal Mountain.
From Shey the route continues across the heart of Upper Dolpo, over the Saldang La to Namgung and the large village of Saldang, then via Sibu to cross the Jeng La, where the Dhaulagiri range appears to the south. We descend to Tokyu and Dho Tarap, centres of Tibetan Buddhist and Bon culture, before following the Tarap Khola through deep gorges to Khanigaon, the old village of Tarakot and back to Dunai and Juphal for the flight out.
This is a hard, fully supported camping trek of 26 days, with several passes around 5,000 m and above and long days in very remote country. It is best suited to experienced trekkers who have already walked at altitude and are comfortable with simple camp life for three weeks. Upper Dolpo is in a rain shadow, so it can be trekked during the summer months when much of Nepal is wet, but snow closes the high passes from late autumn to spring, and flights to Juphal are weather-dependent, so we build a reserve day into the plan.
Restricted area permits are issued only through a registered agency for a minimum of two trekkers with a licensed guide. Nima Adventure, led by Managing Director Kanchha Sherpa, organises the permits, flights, full camping crew, cook and pack animals or porters, so that you can enjoy one of the great journeys of the Himalaya in comfort and safety.
A member of our team meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your hotel. Later in the day we hold an introductory briefing on the Upper Dolpo trek, collect your passport details for the restricted area permits and go through the equipment list for a long camping journey. The rest of the day is free to rest or take a gentle walk around Boudhanath Stupa. Overnight in Kathmandu.
The Upper Dolpo restricted area permit and other paperwork are processed in Kathmandu, so this day allows time for the formalities and a thorough gear check. You will meet your guide for a detailed briefing on the route, camp routine, altitude and flight arrangements. Any missing items can be bought or hired in Thamel. If time allows, visit Swayambhunath or Pashupatinath. Overnight in Kathmandu.
After breakfast we fly for about an hour to Nepalgunj, a busy town in the western Terai close to the Indian border. The afternoon is free to rest or explore the local bazaar, where the hot, flat plains feel a world away from the mountains. Your guide confirms the morning flight to Juphal and checks baggage weights, as domestic flights have strict limits. Overnight in a hotel in Nepalgunj.
An early-morning flight of about 45 minutes carries us over the hills to the airstrip at Juphal, where we meet our camping crew. After a short break we walk downhill through terraced fields and small villages to the Thuli Bheri river and Dunai, the administrative centre of Dolpa district. The walk takes 2-3 hours and is a gentle introduction to the trek. Overnight in camp.
We cross the Thuli Bheri and follow the Suli Gad north, entering Shey Phoksundo National Park, where our permits are checked. The trail winds through walnut groves, small villages and forest of pine and oak, with the river rushing through the gorge below. After 6-7 hours we reach Chhepka, a small settlement in the forest. Overnight in camp.
The trail continues up the valley through forest and past Rechi, then climbs steadily to a viewpoint above the tall Phoksundo waterfall. Shortly after, we catch our first sight of Phoksundo Lake, its turquoise water framed by cliffs and snow peaks, and walk on to Ringmo village with its chortens and stone houses. The walk takes 6-7 hours with a good gain in height. Overnight in camp beside the lake.
A rest day helps acclimatisation and gives time to enjoy one of the most beautiful places in Nepal. You can walk along the shore to an old Bon monastery, explore the narrow lanes of Ringmo, where villagers still follow traditional ways of farming and weaving, or simply sit by the lake as the colours change with the light. Your guide checks everyone's health before the climb ahead. Overnight in camp.
Today we follow the famous trail along the western shore of the lake, a narrow path cut into the cliffs high above the water and described vividly in The Snow Leopard. Beyond the lake we drop into the flat, open valley of the Phoksundo Khola and follow the river upstream to camp. The walk takes 5-6 hours, and care is needed on the exposed sections. Overnight in camp.
We cross the river on a simple wooden bridge and climb into a narrow glacial valley, following it steadily upwards towards the Kang La. The landscape becomes increasingly bare and rocky as we gain height, and blue sheep are sometimes seen on the slopes. After 6-7 hours we set up camp below the pass at Phoksundo Bhanjyang. Overnight in camp, with an early night before the crossing.
An early start leads up a steep slope of scree and, at times, snow to the Kang La, with wide views across the brown hills of Upper Dolpo and back to the peaks above Phoksundo. We descend into a long valley and follow it to Shey Gompa, set beneath the sacred Crystal Mountain. The day takes 6-7 hours and is one of the hardest of the trek. Overnight in camp.
A well-earned rest day at one of the most sacred places in Dolpo. You can visit Shey Gompa, walk part of the pilgrim circuit around the Crystal Mountain and, if you feel strong, hike to Tsakang Gompa, a hermitage built into the cliffs above the valley. This is the area Peter Matthiessen reached in search of the snow leopard, and the silence of the place is remarkable. Overnight in camp.
We climb through a stark, rocky landscape to the Saldang La (around 5,000 m), from where the rolling hills of Upper Dolpo stretch towards the Tibetan border. A long descent through grazing land brings us to Namgung, a small village with an old monastery built against a cliff. The walk takes 6-7 hours, and the scale and emptiness of the country make a lasting impression. Overnight in camp.
A shorter day of 4-5 hours follows the hillside to Saldang, one of the largest villages in Upper Dolpo, spread across a terrace above the Nagon Khola. Flat-roofed houses, barley fields, chortens and monasteries make this a fascinating place to explore in the afternoon. Saldang has long been a stop for trading caravans heading to and from Tibet. Overnight in camp.
We continue along the river valley past terraced fields, chortens, prayer walls and small monasteries, passing the village of Namdo along the way. Yak caravans often share the trail, carrying grain and salt between villages. After 5-6 hours we camp near Sibu, a small settlement beside the river, with time to rest and watch village life in the late afternoon. Overnight in camp.
The trail follows the stream through open valleys and grazing land, climbing gradually towards the foot of the Jeng La. We pass yak herders' camps and may meet caravans on the move. The walk takes 5-6 hours, and we camp at Jeng La Phedi, below the pass, to give ourselves an early start the following morning. Overnight in camp.
An early climb of around two hours brings us to the Jeng La, where the snow-covered Dhaulagiri range appears to the south on a clear morning. We then descend into the Tarap valley, a broad, fertile valley dotted with chortens and small gompas, and walk on to the village of Tokyu. Allow 6-7 hours in total. Overnight in camp.
A gentle walk of 4-5 hours follows the wide Tarap valley past barley fields, mani walls and chortens to Dho Tarap, the main village of the valley. Dho Tarap is home to both Bon and Tibetan Buddhist communities, and its stone houses, monasteries and prayer flags make it one of the most atmospheric settlements in Dolpo. Overnight in camp.
A rest day to explore Dho Tarap and its surroundings at a relaxed pace. With your guide you can visit the local monasteries, both Bon and Buddhist, walk among the fields and houses and learn about how families farm and trade at this altitude. It is also a good day for washing clothes, charging batteries with solar power and resting before the long descent. Overnight in camp.
We begin the descent of the Tarap Khola, following the river into a gorge lined with juniper and wild rose. The valley narrows as we go, and the trail crosses the river several times on small bridges. Blue sheep are sometimes seen on the cliffs above. After 6-7 hours we camp at Serkam, a pleasant spot beside the river. Overnight in camp.
The Tarap Khola carves an impressive gorge, and the trail is cut into the cliffs in places, with stone steps and bridges taking us down towards the warmer lower valley. The vegetation returns as we lose height, and we reach Khanigaon after 6-7 hours, with terraced fields and walnut trees around the village. Overnight in camp.
A shorter walk of 4-5 hours brings us to Tarakot, an old hilltop village whose name refers to the fort that once stood here. From the village there are good views over the Thuli Bheri valley, and Sandul Gompa can be seen across the river. The afternoon is free to explore the village and its narrow lanes. Overnight in camp.
We follow the Thuli Bheri river downstream through gorges and past villages, fields and water-driven mills, back to Dunai. The trail is relatively level and the walk takes 5-6 hours. In Dunai we are back in touch with shops and mobile signal, a sign that the trek is nearly over. Overnight in camp.
Our final walking day retraces the route up through terraced fields to Juphal, about 3-4 hours. In the evening we gather with the cook, kitchen team and porters for a farewell celebration, an important moment for a crew who have looked after us for three weeks. Your guide reconfirms the morning flight. Overnight in a lodge or camp in Juphal.
We take the early flight from Juphal to Nepalgunj and connect with a flight to Kathmandu, arriving in the afternoon if the weather allows. Mountain flights depend on clear conditions, so delays are possible, and your guide will keep you informed. After checking in to your hotel, the evening is free to enjoy a hot shower and a good meal. Overnight in Kathmandu.
This day is kept in reserve in case flights from Juphal or Nepalgunj are delayed by weather. If everything runs to plan, you have a free day for sightseeing at Kathmandu Durbar Square, Patan or Bhaktapur, or simply to relax. In the evening, join us for a farewell dinner to celebrate a remarkable journey through Upper Dolpo. Overnight in Kathmandu.
Depending on your flight time, there may be a few hours for souvenir shopping or a last visit to Boudhanath. Our team transfers you to Tribhuvan International Airport in good time for your departure. If you would like to extend your time in Nepal with a safari in Chitwan or a few quiet days in Pokhara, we are happy to arrange it.