Nima Adventure Trek & Expedition P. Ltd.
Boudha-06, Kathmandu, Nepal
+977-9851114058 · info@nimaadventure.com
Boudha-06, Kathmandu, Nepal
+977-9851114058 · info@nimaadventure.com
Walk north through the arid rain-shadow valleys of the former Kingdom of Lo to the walled town of Lo Manthang, a restricted area rich in Tibetan Buddhist culture.
Upper Mustang, the former Kingdom of Lo, lies north of the main Himalayan range on the border with Tibet. Sheltered from the monsoon by Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas, it is a high desert of wind-carved cliffs, red and ochre canyons and green oases of barley around whitewashed villages. Closed to foreigners until 1992 and still a restricted area, it has kept a Tibetan Buddhist culture that feels a world apart from the rest of Nepal.
The trek begins with a flight from Pokhara to Jomsom and a short walk to Kagbeni, the gateway to the restricted area. From there the trail follows the Kali Gandaki north past cave dwellings carved high into the cliffs, then crosses a series of windswept passes between Chele, Syangboche, Ghami and Tsarang. Each village has its own monastery, chortens and mani walls, and the wall near Ghami is among the longest in Nepal.
The goal is Lo Manthang (3,840 m), the walled capital of Lo, where narrow lanes lead between the old royal palace and monasteries such as Jampa Lhakhang and Thubchen, known for their centuries-old murals. A full day here lets you explore the town and visit nearby cave sites. The return follows a different route via Ghar Gompa, one of the oldest monasteries in the region, and the red cliffs of Dhakmar, before rejoining the trail south to Jomsom and the flight back to Pokhara.
The Upper Mustang Trek is graded moderate. The altitude stays mostly between 3,000 m and 4,000 m, with a few passes slightly higher, and daily walks of 5-7 hours follow dusty, open trails exposed to strong sun and afternoon wind. It suits reasonably fit walkers with an interest in culture and landscape. Because Upper Mustang lies in the rain shadow, it is one of the few treks in Nepal that works well during the monsoon months as well as in spring and autumn.
As a restricted area, Upper Mustang can only be visited with a special permit issued through a registered trekking agency, accompanied by a licensed guide and with at least two trekkers in the group. Nima Adventure, led by Managing Director Kanchha Sherpa, handles the Restricted Area Permit, ACAP, flights and logistics, and can time your trip to coincide with the colourful Tiji festival in Lo Manthang, held each spring according to the Tibetan calendar.
A Nima Adventure representative meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your hotel. After you have settled in, we run through the trek plan and collect the passport details and photographs needed for your Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit and ACAP. The rest of the day is free to recover from your journey or wander the lanes of Thamel. Overnight at a hotel in Kathmandu.
Restricted area permits are issued in Kathmandu through a registered agency, so we use today to complete the paperwork while you explore the city with a guide. A typical day includes Swayambhunath, the hilltop stupa overlooking the valley, Pashupatinath on the banks of the Bagmati, and the great stupa of Boudhanath, heart of Kathmandu's Tibetan community and a fitting introduction to the culture of Mustang. In the evening we hold a full trek briefing. Overnight at a hotel in Kathmandu.
Travel west to Pokhara by tourist bus, a scenic drive of about 6-7 hours along the Trishuli valley, or by a 25-minute flight if you prefer. Pokhara lies on the shore of Phewa Lake with Machhapuchhre rising behind it, and the afternoon is free to relax by the water before tomorrow's early flight. Your guide checks your packing in the evening, as baggage allowances on the Jomsom flight are strictly limited. Overnight at a hotel in Pokhara.
An early morning flight of about 20 minutes takes you up the Kali Gandaki gorge between Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas to Jomsom. After meeting the porters, we walk north along the wide riverbed to Kagbeni, an oasis village of mud-brick houses, green fields and a red monastery at the entrance to Upper Mustang. The afternoon is free to explore its narrow alleys and old chortens. Walking time 3-4 hours. Overnight in a teahouse in Kagbeni.
After the permit checkpoint at the northern edge of Kagbeni you enter the restricted area. The trail follows the east bank of the Kali Gandaki, climbing over ridges to the whitewashed village of Tangbe, with its narrow alleys and apple orchards, and on to Chhusang. Across the river, cave dwellings are carved high into the eroded cliffs. We then cross the Kali Gandaki and climb steeply to Chele, where the landscape and culture become noticeably Tibetan. Walking time 6-7 hours. Overnight in a teahouse in Chele.
Today's trail climbs steeply out of Chele along the edge of a canyon, with views back down the Kali Gandaki and south to Nilgiri. The day includes two small passes, the Taklam La and the Dajori La, and a lunch stop in Samar, a village sheltered by poplar trees. In the afternoon we cross more ridges and side valleys, descending into a gorge and climbing out again before reaching Syangboche. Walking time 6-7 hours. Overnight in a teahouse in Syangboche.
A gradual climb leads to the Yamda La, at around 3,850 m, followed by a descent to Ghiling, a village surrounded by barley and buckwheat fields with a fine old monastery. The trail then climbs to the Nyi La, at roughly 4,000 m one of the highest points of the outward route, before dropping to Ghami, one of the largest villages in Lo, set among fields beneath eroded cliffs. Walking time 5-6 hours. Overnight in a teahouse in Ghami.
Leaving Ghami we cross a suspension bridge and walk beside one of the longest mani walls in Nepal, built of stones carved with Buddhist prayers; we keep the wall on our right, as local custom asks. The trail then climbs over the Tsarang La and descends to Tsarang, a large village dominated by a five-storey white dzong (fortress) and a red monastery that houses old statues and texts. Walking time 4-5 hours. Overnight in a teahouse in Tsarang.
The trail drops to a stream below Tsarang and climbs gradually across a wide, open landscape to the Lo La, at about 3,950 m. From the top you get your first view of Lo Manthang, its walls and flat rooftops spread across a plateau below, with the hills of Tibet beyond. A short descent takes you through the town gate into the old capital of the Kingdom of Lo. Walking time 4-5 hours. Overnight in a teahouse in Lo Manthang.
A full day to explore Lo Manthang. Inside the walls, Jampa Lhakhang and Thubchen Gompa contain some of the finest wall paintings in the Himalaya, carefully restored in recent decades, and Chode Gompa is still home to a community of monks. You can also see the old royal palace and wander the narrow lanes. In the afternoon, an optional ride on horseback or by jeep takes you to the cave complexes around Chhoser or the hilltop monastery of Namgyal Gompa. Overnight in a teahouse in Lo Manthang.
We leave Lo Manthang on a quieter trail away from the main route, climbing to a high, windswept pass of a little over 4,000 m with wide views over the plateau. Below it lies Ghar Gompa, also known as Lo Gekar, believed to be one of the oldest monasteries in Nepal and associated with Guru Rinpoche, and known for its painted stones and murals. From here the trail descends to Dhakmar, set beneath dramatic red cliffs eroded into columns and caves. Walking time 6-7 hours. Overnight in a teahouse in Dhakmar.
A short walk down the valley brings us back to Ghami, where we rejoin the main trail. From here we retrace our steps up to the Nyi La and down to Ghiling, with time in the afternoon to visit its monastery and walk among the fields. The landscape looks quite different in the opposite direction, and the late light on the eroded cliffs is a photographer's delight. Walking time 5-6 hours. Overnight in a teahouse in Ghiling.
We continue south through Syangboche and Samar, crossing the small passes of the outward journey, and descend past Chele back towards the Kali Gandaki. A final steep descent and a river crossing bring us to Chhusang, a village beside the river surrounded by red cliffs and caves. It feels noticeably warmer down here after the high plateau, and the evening is a good time to sit back with the crew. Walking time 6-7 hours. Overnight in a teahouse in Chhusang.
The last trekking day retraces the route via Tangbe to Kagbeni, where we check out of the restricted area, and continues along the Kali Gandaki riverbed to Jomsom. The wind in the valley strengthens from late morning, so we start early. If you prefer, this stage can be shortened by taking a jeep from Chhusang or Kagbeni. In the evening we celebrate the end of the trek with the guide and porters. Walking time 6-7 hours. Overnight in a lodge in Jomsom.
Flights from Jomsom leave early in the morning, before the wind picks up, and the short journey offers a last close look at Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas. In Pokhara we transfer you to your hotel, and the rest of the day is free to relax by Phewa Lake. Mountain flights depend on the weather; if there is a delay, we wait for the next flight or arrange the long road journey back to Pokhara by jeep. Overnight at a hotel in Pokhara.
Return to Kathmandu by tourist bus, a drive of about 6-7 hours, or by a short flight if you have arranged one. On arrival you are transferred to your hotel, and the rest of the day is free for souvenir shopping in Thamel or a final visit to Boudhanath, close to our office. In the evening we meet for a farewell dinner to celebrate your journey to the Kingdom of Lo. Overnight at a hotel in Kathmandu.
Your Upper Mustang journey ends today. Depending on your flight time, you may have a few free hours for last-minute shopping or a final walk around the city. A Nima Adventure representative will drive you to Tribhuvan International Airport in good time for your international flight. If you would like to extend your stay with another trek, a jungle safari or a tour of Bhutan or Tibet, we will be happy to help.