Cholatse Expedition (6,440 m)
Trip Overview
Cholatse (6,440 m) is one of the most beautiful mountains in the Everest region, a sharp, ice-clad peak rising between the Khumbu and Gokyo valleys and joined to its neighbour Taboche by a long, high ridge. Trekkers heading for the Cho La pass directly beneath its steep faces and the glacial lake at its foot, yet few realise that it can be climbed. First ascended in 1982 by its south-west ridge, Cholatse sees far fewer climbers than Island Peak or Ama Dablam, which makes it a superb objective for anyone who wants a technical Himalayan summit away from the crowds.
Our 25-day expedition follows the south-west ridge, a varied and committing route. From base camp at around 5,000 m, snow slopes and a small icefall lead to Camp 1 at around 5,700 m. Above, a short rock section, depending on snow cover, gives way to a long, narrow snow and ice arête that climbs to the summit dome, with Camp 2 placed at around 6,000 m when conditions require. Our climbing Sherpas fix ropes on all steep sections, and the summit rewards you with close views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu and Ama Dablam.
Acclimatisation is built into the approach. We trek from Lukla to Namche Bazaar, take the quiet high trail over the Mong La to the Sherpa village of Phortse, and spend two nights at Dingboche before walking to Dzongla. Crossing the Cho La (5,420 m) then brings us to base camp on the western side of the mountain, already well adapted to the altitude. Eight days are allowed for the climb itself, including spare days for weather, and base camp is fully serviced by our cook and kitchen team with an individual tent for every member.
Who is this trip for?
Cholatse is a serious technical climb, often compared with Ama Dablam in difficulty but climbed mostly on snow and ice. It suits climbers who have already summited a 6,000 m peak and are comfortable on steep ice, exposed ridges and fixed ropes, ideally with some rock-climbing experience. Nima Adventure plans each expedition from our office in Boudha, Kathmandu, under Managing Director Kanchha Sherpa, a career Himalayan guide, with experienced, government-licensed Sherpa climbers leading on the mountain and small teams so that every decision fits the people climbing.
Trip highlights
- Technical ascent of the south-west ridge on snow, ice and rock
- One of the most striking and least crowded peaks in the Everest region
- Cross the Cho La (5,420 m) between the Khumbu and Gokyo valleys
- Quiet acclimatisation trek via the Mong La, Phortse and Dingboche
- Summit views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu and Ama Dablam
- Experienced, government-licensed Sherpa climbing guides
Itinerary
We meet you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfer you to your hotel. After a chance to freshen up, your climbing leader holds a short welcome meeting to go through the programme, check passports and insurance and answer your first questions. The rest of the day is free. A stroll around Boudhanath Stupa, near our office in Boudha, is a relaxing way to shake off the journey.
We complete the formalities for your Cholatse climbing permit and hold a full expedition briefing. Your climbing leader checks your technical equipment carefully, from boots, crampons and harness to ice axes and down clothing, so that anything missing can be bought or hired in Thamel. Group gear, ropes and expedition food are packed for the flight to Lukla. In the evening we discuss the route, acclimatisation plan and safety procedures.
An early flight from Kathmandu, or from Ramechhap during the busiest seasons, lands at Lukla's mountain airstrip. After meeting our porters, we walk down the Dudh Koshi valley on a gentle trail past mani walls, prayer wheels and farming villages to Phakding. The walk takes 3-4 hours and loses a little height, an easy start that lets the body begin adjusting to the mountains.
We follow the Dudh Koshi upstream across several suspension bridges and enter Sagarmatha National Park at Monjo, where permits are checked. After crossing the high Hillary Suspension Bridge, a long climb through pine forest brings the first view of Everest on a clear day and leads to Namche Bazaar, the busy trading town of the Khumbu. Walking time is 5-6 hours. Overnight in a teahouse.
A day to help the body adapt. We hike above Namche to the Everest View Hotel at around 3,880 m, or on to the village of Khumjung, for wide views of Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Thamserku, then return to Namche to sleep. Allow 3-4 hours of walking. In the afternoon, visit the Sherpa Culture Museum or simply rest, hydrate and enjoy Namche's bakeries.
Leaving the main Everest trail, we climb to the Mong La ridge, crowned by a chorten, with views of Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Khumbila. The path then drops steeply through forest to the Dudh Koshi at Phortse Tenga before climbing to Phortse, a peaceful village of stone-walled fields and home to many experienced climbing Sherpas. Walking time is 5-6 hours, on a much quieter trail than the main route.
A quiet high trail traverses the hillside above the Imja Khola to join the main route at Pangboche, home to one of the oldest monasteries in the Khumbu. Above the tree line, we follow the Imja valley past yak pastures to Dingboche, a village of stone-walled fields beneath Ama Dablam and Island Peak. Walking time is 5-6 hours at a steady, unhurried pace.
We climb the ridge of Nangkartshang above the village to around 5,000 m for views of Makalu, Lhotse and the Imja valley, then return to Dingboche to sleep. The 4-5 hour hike is valuable preparation for the Cho La and base camp. In the afternoon your climbing guide reviews rope techniques, jumar use and abseiling, and checks how each member is coping with the altitude.
We climb over the ridge above Dingboche and join the trail towards Thukla, then branch west on a quieter path that contours above the valley, with the Chola lake below and the ice faces of Cholatse and Taboche towering ahead. Dzongla is a small group of lodges set in a high bowl directly below the Cho La. Walking time is 5-6 hours.
An early start takes us up a rocky trail and across the small glacier below the pass, with microspikes or crampons if conditions require, to the prayer-flagged Cho La at 5,420 m. We descend the steep western side, then leave the Gokyo trail to reach base camp at around 5,000 m below the south-west ridge of Cholatse. Expect 6-8 hours. Our crew will have camp ready.
A day to rest and adapt to base camp. In the morning our Sherpa team leads the traditional puja ceremony, asking for the mountain's blessing and a safe climb. Your climbing guide then runs a full skills session on the nearby glacier, covering crampon technique, ice-axe arrest, roped travel, jumar and abseil methods, and checks that all equipment fits and works perfectly.
The Sherpa team fixes ropes through the small icefall and up to Camp 1 at around 5,700 m, with Camp 2 at around 6,000 m when needed. After a load carry and an acclimatisation night at Camp 1, we wait for a clear forecast and climb the long snow and ice arête of the south-west ridge to the summit, then descend to Camp 1 or base camp. Remaining days are kept spare for weather or a second attempt.
After clearing base camp and packing out all rubbish, we descend into the upper Dudh Koshi valley and follow the quiet trail along its eastern side, past summer settlements and juniper slopes, back to Phortse. Losing more than 1,100 m of height brings warmer air and much better sleep. It is a long day of 7-8 hours, so we set off early and take regular breaks.
We descend to Phortse Tenga, climb back over the Mong La and follow the balcony trail to Namche Bazaar, with fine views of Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kangtega. The walk takes 5-6 hours. After weeks in camp, Namche's hot showers, coffee shops and bakeries are a real treat, and the afternoon is free for a little souvenir shopping.
The final trekking day retraces the route down to the Dudh Koshi, across the suspension bridges and through Monjo and Phakding, before a last gradual climb to Lukla. It is a long day of 6-7 hours. In the evening we share a farewell meal with our Sherpa team and porters, a chance to thank everyone who made the expedition possible.
Morning flights leave Lukla when the weather allows, landing in Kathmandu after a short flight, or at Ramechhap followed by a road transfer of 4-5 hours. We transfer you to your hotel for a long shower and a rest. Because Lukla flights are weather dependent, the following day is kept as a reserve so that delays do not affect your international flight.
This day absorbs any delay in the Lukla flights. If it is not needed, you are free to explore Boudhanath Stupa, Swayambhunath, Pashupatinath or Patan Durbar Square, or to shop for souvenirs in Thamel. In the evening we host a farewell dinner to celebrate your climb and talk through photographs and plans for your next Himalayan objective.
Our team transfers you to Tribhuvan International Airport around three hours before your flight home. If time allows beforehand, enjoy a final walk around Boudha or Thamel. Thank you for climbing Cholatse with Nima Adventure; we look forward to welcoming you back to the Himalaya for your next climb or trek.
What’s included
Cost Includes
15 items- Airport arrival and departure transfers in Kathmandu by private vehicle
- Four nights in a Kathmandu hotel on a bed and breakfast basis, plus a farewell dinner
- Return flights Kathmandu (or Ramechhap) to Lukla for members and staff
- Cholatse climbing permit
- Sagarmatha National Park entry permit and Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit
- Experienced, government-licensed Sherpa climbing guides, with one guide per member on summit day
- Porters to carry trekking and climbing baggage
- Teahouse accommodation and all meals during the trek
- Base camp service: individual sleeping tent per member, dining, kitchen and toilet tents, cook and kitchen staff
- All meals at base camp, and high-altitude food and fuel for the high camps
- Shared high-altitude tents, stoves and gas at Camp 1 and Camp 2
- Fixed ropes, snow bars, ice screws, rock anchors and other group climbing equipment
- Wages, equipment, food, and medical and accident insurance for all Nepali staff
- Satellite phone for emergency communication, regular weather forecasts and a comprehensive first-aid kit
- Government taxes, garbage management fees and our service charges
Cost Excludes
12 items- International flights to and from Kathmandu
- Nepal entry visa fee (visas are available on arrival at Kathmandu airport)
- Travel insurance covering technical mountaineering, medical treatment and helicopter evacuation (mandatory)
- Personal climbing equipment and clothing (some items can be hired in Kathmandu)
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu, except the farewell dinner
- Extra hotel nights due to early arrival, late departure or early return from the mountain
- Summit bonus for climbing Sherpas
- Tips for guides, porters and base camp staff
- Personal expenses such as drinks, snacks, laundry, Wi-Fi, battery charging and hot showers in teahouses
- Rescue and evacuation costs
- Costs arising from flight delays, bad weather, illness or other circumstances beyond our control
- Any service not listed as included
Equipment list
Foot Wear
3- Normal Socks 3-4Pairs
- Trekking Shoes 1 Pair
- Slippers
Hands
2- Thin Fleece Gloves 1 Pair
- Wind Stopper Fleece Gloves
Upper Body
6- Light Weight Top / Thermo Coat
- Buff
- Fleece Jacket 1
- Gore Tex Jacket 1
- Down Jacket 1
- Cotton T-Shirt 2-3
Lower Body
4- Mid Weight Long Under Pants
- Under Wear 4-5 Pairs
- Gore Tex Pant. 1
- Water Proof Pant1
Head
4- Sun Cap
- Balaclava
- Fleece Hat
- Neck Gaiter 2-3
Sleeping Bags
1- Sleeping Bag rated to -20°C For base camp
Bag Packs
2- Rucksacks 45-55L
- Duffle Bag 90 L 1 Piece
Sun stuffs
4- Sunscreen Minimum SPF 50
- Lip balm with SPF 30
- Sunglasses UV protection
- Toiletries.
Medicines
7- Brufen / Ibuprofens
- Antibiotic
- Diamox
- Paracetamol
- Handy Plaster
- Crack Bandage
- Tincture Iodine
Miscellaneous
2- Walking Stick
- Umbrella / Rain Coat
Frequently asked questions
Cholatse is often compared with Ama Dablam in overall difficulty, but the character is different. Ama Dablam involves more rock climbing, while Cholatse is mostly steep snow and ice, including a small icefall and a long, exposed arête on the south-west ridge. It is lower, at 6,440 m, but the ridge is sustained and committing. You need confident ice-climbing skills and experience on fixed ropes.
You should have summited at least one 6,000 m peak, such as Island Peak, Lobuche East or Mera Peak, and be comfortable on steep snow and ice with crampons and an ice axe. Experience with jumar ascent, abseiling and moving on exposed ridges is essential, and basic rock-climbing ability helps. If you are building towards Cholatse, we can recommend a suitable preparation climb.
You need a climbing permit for Cholatse, the Sagarmatha National Park entry permit and the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit. All are included in the trip and arranged by our office in Kathmandu before departure. Please send a passport copy and photographs in advance. Permits are checked on the trail, so your guide carries the documents for the whole team.
The Cho La (5,420 m) is a high pass with a short glacier section and steep, rocky descents. In good conditions it is a demanding but non-technical trek; after fresh snow or in icy conditions we use microspikes or crampons and may fix a rope. By this point you will be well acclimatised after nights at Dingboche and Dzongla, and your guide sets a steady pace.
Spring, from April to May, and autumn, from October to November, offer the most stable conditions. In spring, snow cover on the ridge is often better for climbing, while autumn brings clear skies and colder temperatures. Ice conditions vary from year to year, so your climbing leader assesses the route on arrival and chooses the safest timing for the summit push.
The eight-day climbing period includes spare days for bad weather or a second attempt. We receive weather forecasts at base camp, and your Sherpa guides decide on timing with you based on wind, snow conditions and the health of the team. If conditions do not allow a safe ascent, we come down without the summit; we never trade safety for a summit.
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