Chulu East Peak Climbing (6,584 m)

While our office finalises your Chulu East climbing permit, ACAP and TIMS card, your climbing guide goes through your equipment piece by piece. Anything missing, from mountaineering boots to a warm down jacket, can be bought or hired in Thamel. In the evening we hold a full briefing covering the route, acclimatisation, summit day and what to expect at each stage of the trip.

An early start takes us out of the valley along the Prithvi Highway beside the Trishuli river. At Dumre we turn north into the Marsyangdi valley and continue to Besisahar, gateway to the Annapurna Circuit. Allow 5-6 hours for the drive, depending on traffic and road works. We spend the night in a local hotel, with time for a short walk around the busy bazaar.

We switch to a 4WD jeep for the rough road up the Marsyangdi gorge. The route climbs past terraced fields and roaring waterfalls, through the villages of Jagat, Tal and Dharapani, before turning west into forests of pine and fir. After 6-7 hours we reach Chame, the district headquarters of Manang, where snow peaks start to appear above the rooftops. Overnight in a teahouse.

Our first full trekking day follows the river through forest, passing apple orchards at Bhratang and the great sweeping rock slab of Paungda Danda. The valley then opens out and the landscape becomes drier and more Tibetan in feel. We cross to the north bank and climb to Upper Pisang, where the monastery looks straight across to Annapurna II. Walking time is 5-6 hours.

A steep zigzag climb leads to Ghyaru, perched high on the hillside with one of the best views on the whole circuit: Annapurna II, III and IV and Gangapurna in a single sweep. From here the trail contours gently past chortens, mani walls and fields to Ngawal, a peaceful village of flat-roofed stone houses. Walking time is 5-6 hours. Overnight in a teahouse.

An important day for acclimatisation before we head up to base camp. We hike above the village towards the Chulu slopes, gaining several hundred metres to around 4,200 m for close views of the Annapurna range, then return to sleep in Ngawal. The 3-4 hour walk follows the climb high, sleep low principle. In the afternoon your guide checks your climbing gear and answers questions about the climb.

We leave the villages behind and climb north on rough paths through juniper and alpine grassland, then over moraine to base camp at around 4,700 m beneath the Chulu peaks. The walk takes 4-5 hours, with the Annapurna range spread out across the valley behind us. Our crew has the dining and sleeping tents ready, and the afternoon is for resting and drinking plenty of fluids.

A day to adjust to the altitude and prepare for the climb. On the slopes near camp, your guide runs a practical session on fitting and walking in crampons, using the ice axe, travelling roped together on a glacier, ascending fixed ropes with a jumar and abseiling. We also check every piece of equipment and agree the plan and turnaround time for summit day.

The route to high camp climbs rocky ground and snow slopes to a camp at around 5,400 m, with superb views over the Manang valley. Allow 4-5 hours with a loaded pack, moving slowly and steadily. On arrival we melt snow for drinks, eat an early dinner and prepare clothing, harness and crampons for a pre-dawn start the next morning.

We set off in the early hours by headtorch, roped together across the glacier and up steadily steepening snow slopes to the summit ridge, with fixed ropes placed on the steeper sections. The summit view takes in Annapurna II, III and IV, Gangapurna, Tilicho Peak and Manaslu. After photos, we descend carefully to high camp and continue to base camp. Expect 9-12 hours in total.

This day is kept in hand in case wind, fresh snow or poor visibility delay the summit attempt. Having a spare day means we never need to climb in unsafe conditions just to keep to the schedule. If everything goes to plan on summit day, we use the day to rest at base camp or start the walk down to Manang at a more relaxed pace.

We break camp and descend to Ngawal, then follow the trail down past Braga, with its old cliffside monastery, to Manang, the largest village in the upper valley. Walking time is 5-6 hours. After nights in camp, the lodges, bakeries and hot showers of Manang feel like luxury, and the thicker air brings a welcome boost of energy for the trek ahead.

Leaving Manang, the trail climbs gently to the village of Gunsang and on across high pastures where yaks graze among juniper bushes, with Gangapurna and the Annapurnas behind. Yak Kharka is a small cluster of lodges on the route to the Thorong La. It is a short day of 3-4 hours, keeping a gentle pace and leaving the afternoon free to rest.

We continue up the valley past Ledar, cross the river on a wooden bridge and traverse a narrow trail above the gorge, passing a landslide-prone section quickly and in single file. Thorong Phedi sits at the foot of the pass, a busy stopping point for trekkers preparing for the crossing. Walking time is 3-4 hours, with an early night ahead of tomorrow's big day.

We start before first light, climbing steeply to Thorong High Camp and then along a long series of rises to the Thorong La, decorated with prayer flags and a large chorten. The view from the pass sweeps across the Annapurnas and the barren hills of Mustang. A long, knee-testing descent leads to Muktinath, a sacred pilgrimage site. Walking time is 8-9 hours.

After an early visit to the temple complex at Muktinath, holy to both Hindus and Buddhists, we drive by jeep down into the Kali Gandaki valley through Jharkot and Kagbeni, gateway to Upper Mustang. The drive takes about 1-2 hours. In Jomsom the afternoon is free; many travellers enjoy the short trip to Marpha, a neat village of whitewashed houses and apple orchards.

A short morning flight weaves down the Kali Gandaki between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I, landing in Pokhara around 20-25 minutes later. If high winds or cloud cancel the flight, we drive to Pokhara by road instead. The afternoon is free to relax at Lakeside, paddle a boat on Phewa Lake or simply enjoy a coffee with the mountains reflected in the water.

A tourist bus carries us back to Kathmandu along the Prithvi Highway, a scenic journey of 6-7 hours through river valleys and hill villages, with stops for meals. If you would rather fly, a short flight from Pokhara can be arranged. After checking in to your hotel, join us in the evening for a farewell dinner to celebrate your summit.

Your trip ends today. Our team transfers you to Tribhuvan International Airport around three hours before your flight home. If you have a few spare hours beforehand, Boudhanath Stupa and Thamel are good places for last souvenirs. Thank you for climbing with Nima Adventure; we hope to welcome you back to the Himalaya soon.