Mount Dhaulagiri Expedition (8,167 m)

Today is for getting ready. Your climbing Sherpa checks your personal equipment, from boots and crampons to down suit and sleeping bag, and helps you buy or hire anything missing in Kathmandu's mountaineering shops. We complete the climbing permit formalities, meet the government liaison officer and attend the official expedition briefing at the Department of Tourism. In the afternoon you pack your expedition bags, which travel with the team to Base Camp.

A short, scenic flight of about 25 minutes takes you west along the Himalaya to Pokhara, with views of the Annapurna and Manaslu ranges and, on a clear day, Dhaulagiri itself. Pokhara is Nepal's lakeside resort, and the afternoon is free to stroll along the shore of Phewa Lake, take a boat out on the water or enjoy a relaxed meal in a lakeside cafe. It is the last evening of easy comforts before the mountains.

A long jeep drive of 8-9 hours follows the road via Beni into the Kali Gandaki valley, one of the deepest gorges in the world, squeezed between the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna massifs. The landscape changes from subtropical terraces to pine forest and finally the dry, windswept terrain of Lower Mustang. Marpha is a charming Thakali village of whitewashed stone houses and flagstone lanes, famous for its apple orchards and dried fruit.

We drive up the valley via Jomsom and Kagbeni to Muktinath, a sacred pilgrimage site for both Hindus and Buddhists, where 108 water spouts and an eternal flame draw pilgrims from across South Asia. Walking around the temple complex and the villages nearby is ideal acclimatisation before returning to sleep in Marpha. The views of Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri from the upper valley are superb. Expect 4-5 hours of driving and 2-3 hours of walking.

Leaving the Kali Gandaki behind, the trail climbs steeply above Marpha through pine and juniper forest and onto open slopes with wide views of the Nilgiri peaks and the valley below. It is a steady, demanding ascent of about 5-6 hours, gaining well over 1,000 m to the high summer pasture of Yak Kharka, where we camp for the night. From here on, accommodation is in tents and our kitchen crew prepares all meals.

This is a long, high day of about 7-8 hours. The trail climbs steadily over moraine and scree to Thapa Pass, also known as Dhampus Pass, at 5,244 m, where prayer flags frame views of Dhaulagiri, Tukuche Peak and the Annapurna range. Beyond the pass we descend gently into Hidden Valley, a wide, remote basin ringed by peaks and often visited by blue sheep, and camp near the foot of Dhampus Peak at about 5,000 m.

From Hidden Valley the route climbs to French Pass at about 5,360 m, named after the French expedition of 1950 that explored the area, with a magnificent close view of Dhaulagiri's north face. We then descend over moraine beside the Chhonbardan Glacier to Dhaulagiri Base Camp at about 4,740 m, where the kitchen team sets up camp. Allow 7-8 hours. Settle into your individual box tent and enjoy a hot meal in the dining tent.

After a puja ceremony and refresher training, rotations begin. The route climbs the glacier above Base Camp, exposed in places to avalanche and serac fall, to Camp I near the north-east col, then follows the broad north-east ridge to Camp II and Camp III. Two rotations, each followed by rest at Base Camp, prepare you for the summit push, which climbs from Camp III over snow and rock to the summit at 8,167 m. Spare days allow for storms and a second attempt.

With the climb complete, the team strips the high camps and Base Camp and packs all rubbish and equipment for removal, leaving the site as clean as we found it. It is a busy but satisfying day, finished with a celebration dinner with the climbing Sherpas and kitchen crew. Oxygen masks and regulators are returned, and we confirm the arrangements for leaving Base Camp, whether by helicopter or on foot.

Weather permitting, most climbers leave Base Camp by helicopter, a short and spectacular flight down the valleys to Pokhara. The helicopter is not part of the standard package and can be arranged on request. If you prefer to walk out, the return trek retraces the route over French Pass and Thapa Pass to Marpha, followed by the drive to Pokhara, and adds three to four days to the itinerary. Either way, a comfortable hotel awaits in Pokhara.

A short morning flight returns you to Kathmandu, with a final look at the Himalayan skyline from the aircraft window. After transferring to your hotel, the rest of the day is free to rest, enjoy a long hot shower and catch up with friends and family. Members attend the expedition debriefing at the Department of Tourism, after which summit certificates are issued to successful climbers.

Enjoy a relaxed day in the capital. You might visit the Kathmandu Valley's UNESCO-listed sites such as Swayambhunath, Pashupatinath and Bhaktapur, or browse the shops of Thamel and Boudha for gifts. In the evening the team gathers for a farewell dinner to celebrate the expedition, share photographs and thank the climbing Sherpas for their support. It is a fitting end to a long and demanding climb.

After breakfast and final packing, a Nima Adventure representative transfers you to Tribhuvan International Airport in good time for your flight home. If you would like to stay longer in Nepal, our Kathmandu office can arrange a short trek, a wildlife safari in Chitwan National Park or a cultural tour of the Kathmandu Valley. We hope to see you back in the Himalaya before long.